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Essentially wine made from honey fermented with water and yeast, mead is on its way to becoming the next big thing in the adult beverage world. It's an ancient elixir, one of the first wines ever made, enjoyed by B.C. Romans and Vikings and even in parts of Asia. Old-school mead was said to be cloyingly sweet, perhaps fitting since honey is its defining characteristic. But the new breed of mead tends to be dry and arrestingly complex, a fantastically crisp and refreshing sipper on a hot summer day. And because new, delicious things often sell well, the American Mead Makers Association says that while mead is the smallest segment of the alcoholic beverage industry, it's also the fastest growing.
You'll find mead at farmers' markets, wine stores, and bar menus more and more this summer, so please give it a whirl. Bear in mind that it comes in an astounding array of flavors and styles (super-dry to sweet; still to sparkling; fruity to savory to chocolatey). And potency can range from 8% alcohol by volume (like a strongish craft beer) to 18% ABV (like fortified wine).
We'll be staff-testing several varieties in the coming weeks and will share our findings to help guide you down this honey-gold road. So cheers, skål, and salut to the oldest new drink around.
10 Of The Best Mead Recipes
Let me come out and say that I am a huge fan of mead. To give you a basic idea of what mead is, think of it as &ldquohoney wine.&rdquo While that may or may not be a gross simplification, that is indeed what it tastes like to me. Like wine, it is created through a process of fermentation, the difference being that mead is made by fermenting honey rather than grapes.
Unlike wine, mead goes down very easily, much like flavored rum. So I suppose I should warn you to be a bit cautious when choosing to imbibe this particular beverage. While it is easier to drink than your average wine, it also packs nearly twice the amount of alcoholic content.
With that disclaimer out of the way, let&rsquos begin shall we? Below are a few mead recipes that piqued my interest, and indeed, I definitely plan on making a couple of these in the near future.
Note: these aren&rsquot ranked, so don&rsquot feel like the mead I have listed at #1 is inherently better than the one listed at #10.
Troubleshooting your Mead
Here are some typical questions and answers about troubleshooting potential problems with your mead.
Your Batch of mead doesn't appear to be fermenting or the airlock is bubbling very slowly.
If this is your first batch of mead you might be wondering about the airlock and how much it should bubble.
Normal bubbling Within the first 24-48 hours after you added the yeast the airlock should start a slow bubbling - maybe 1 bubble every 30-60 seconds. Then over the course of the next 2-3 weeks the bubbling will get vigorous (more than 1 bubble a second). If these things don't happen you will need to troubleshoot your mead.
Here are some guidelines for troubleshooting.
1. Did you add Campden Tablets to your mead? If so, did you wait at least 24 hours before adding the yeast? If you did not then you should add more yeast to the batch. The Campden Tablets probably killed your yeast. Add the same type of yeast and same quantity as you did when first making the batch.
2. Did you check the expiration date on your yeast? Yeast can last a long time but it does expire. If the yeast has expired then add more yeast in the same type and quantity you originally used.
3. What is the temperature of the room that you are storing the mead? If it is below 65 F (18 C) then it might be too cold and your ferment has stalled. Move the mead into a warmer location and it may start up. If it doesn't start up you should follow other guidelines for troubleshooting.
4. Check the PH of your mead. Honey is low in ph and the Must may be out of the growing range for your yeast. Use small paper ph strips to check the acidity. If it is below 3.7 then add calcium carbonate blend to the must and then see if it starts up within 24 hours. If the ph is over 4.6 then add acid blend and see if it starts up within 24 hours. If not then pitch a new batch of yeast. Alternately you can add a half cup of orange juice per gallon and re-check the ph.
5. Is your must being kept in a dark place or has it been covered? Light, and particularly sunlight, can prohibit the yeast from growing. Put a cover on your jug being careful not to block the airlock, and see if the ferment starts bubbling within 24 hours. If it doesn't start up then refer to the other troubleshooting steps.
6. Food for the yeast - Did you make a recipe that doesn't use some type of supplemental food for the yeast? I mean is there no fruit, energizer, nutrient, raisins, tea leaves or anything else? Is it just honey, water and yeast? Honey is a borderline poor food for yeast and you might want to just add a handful of raisins (25 per gallon of mead) or some wine maker's nutrient (it comes with quantity recommendations). Wait 24 hours to see if the ferment starts up and if it doesn't then you can pitch more yeast.
7. And here is one that does happen. Is the airlock and rubber stopper tight on your jug? Gas could be escaping out the edges and not tickling the airlock. Check it!
If your mead just won't clear up
If you are having trouble getting your mead to clear up you can use a product called bentonite which will clear it right up. It is an inexpensive clay product and it comes with instructions for use.
I have a tutorial with a video and pictures that will teach you about cloudy mead and show you how to clear it up: How to clarify mead with Bentonite
New: What does clear mead look like and how do you clarify your mead?
If you are new to mead making you might be sure what a clear mead looks like - or how to clarify your mead. I have good advice for you here including a video showing mead clearing up. I also have three products you can use to quickly clear up your mead. Clear mead and clarifying mead
Is your Mead Stratified? Has it separated into distinct layers of honey and water? I have a little bit more in depth tutorial with a picture that shows you how to fix this> Fixing stratification of Mead
New: The Ultimate Easy Guide to Successfully making one gallon of mead. - I have put together a video that shows you an almost fool proof method to make one gallon of mead
3. The Golden Elixir Was Considered the Drink of the Gods
Referred to as “nectar of the gods” by ancient Greeks, mead was believed to be dew sent from the heavens and collected by bees. Many European cultures considered bees to be the gods’ messengers, and mead was thus associated with immortality and other magical powers, such as divine strength and wit. For this reason, mead continued to factor heavily in Greek ceremonies even after its eventual decline in drinking popularity.
The Top Six Reasons to Age Mead
Homebrewing of mead has begun to gain traction in the last few years. Is mead the new trendy beverage? Is honey water more bougie than fruit- or malt-based worts? Whatever the reason, it seems like mead might be here to stay. So many YouTube channels and internet forums advocate for various methods of making meads that are fast ferments and quick to hit the table.
But hold on there a minute – don’t wines (mead technically being a honey wine) need some time to age? Hipster homebrewers might have you believe otherwise. But those of us who’ve been around the brewing block a while tend to disagree. The aging debate is truly a house divided, and admittedly I’ve heard both sides from longtime and beginner brewers alike.
But I’m a big believer in aging of the ancient fructose and glucose fermentable. To make my case, here are the Top Six Reasons you should be aging your mead:
1. A Moment of Clarity
“Looks aren’t everything!” you might say. But I disagree – there is a certain spit and polish in serving up a crystal-clear brewed beverage. Young mead suffers from a lot of haze in its early days. This foamy fog is comprised of live yeasts, dead yeast, wax, and other fermentation byproducts held in suspension. Some of them taste bad. Others can give you some odorous posterior expulsions. Aging gives the mead some time to drop these particulates out of suspension so that the leftover liquid will be clear and untainted. In a lot of cases, this doesn’t even take long – especially if you cold crash your mead at 33-40F for a few days in the fridge. Appearances can be deceiving, so take a little time for transparency and age your mead!
2. Bulk Up Your Complexity
No one is quite sure why time creates more complexity in wines and meads – but it certainly does. And depending on the ingredients, more time in the bottle can make for exponentially complex flavors. Theories on how aging works have to do with everything from tidal forces to simple and natural molecular bonding. Whatever the case, leaving mead to sit does something. If you’ve made a fruit mead (melomel), those added organic compounds may leap to life in as little as 6 months to a year. Some of the best brews I’ve made have been the ones I forgot about in the dark corner of a closet only to rediscover in their prime. Let your mead live up to its full potential. Let it live a little longer.
3. Amp Up Your Quantity
“But I only made a gallon! I want to try it now!” There’s a reason so many of us moved up to 5- and 6-gallon batches early on in our brewventures. The more you make, the longer you get to enjoy it in moderation. You’ll be able to see how a bottle corked a month ago changes to become the bottle corked five years ago. These lessons help you improve your brewing practices, procedures, and recipes. Aging your mead gives you an impetus to make more and build a stockpile – a cellar of sorts. Soon you’ll come to look forward to the bigger investment in equipment and ingredients because the fruits of your labor go so much farther. And as a bonus – you’ll always have a gift on hand for a friend or family member who appreciates a delectable drink!
4. The Benefits of Bulk
Another reason to make a lot of mead at once is that you can assert more consistency across your batch. You might’ve heard of “bulk aging” – the process of leaving your entire brew in a single vessel right up until you’re ready to drink it. Aging mead in bulk means that the whole batch will be a much more consistent product across all of the bottles. Say you make one gallon and bottle it as soon as it is clear. Each bottle may respond to its environment a little differently. One may get too much light. Another may get too warm. Another may end up in your fridge for a month only to be taken out and placed back with the others. There are a ton of variable scenarios when you’re juggling four 750ml bottles.
Now imagine you have 5 gallons of blueberry melomel. You pitch in some toasted oak chips for it to age on. That five gallon carboy is staying firmly put somewhere. You can easily cover it in a heavy blanket and stash it away. A year or two later, you can pull it out and bottle it – and every bottle will have aged exactly the same. The whole batch will be both ready to drink and have flavor and complexity that is consistent across every single bottle!
5. Your Friends Will Notice!
If you end up gifting a bottle – your friends will notice if your mead is young. Young mead tastes “hot” due to fusel alcohols that have not become muted. The effects of fermentation persist in a batch for some time. Acids are prominent. Aromas are pronounced. Some CO2 may still be present – which carries volatile compounds right into your olfactory nerves. They’ll grit their teeth and force a smile, while writing-off homebrew in their liquor lineup. Serving friends young brews may turn them off of your hobby. They’ll come to believe homemade fermentations simply can’t be as good as those from established brewhouses. You, a proud mead mama or papa, are willing to look past these flaws. It is your baby after all. Don’t serve sour toot-juice to your friends. Let your mead age, clear out, and mellow. Your friends will love you for it – and compliments will be sincere!
6. You’re Not in a Rush
Let’s get real for a second. Liquor stores are everywhere. Even in Oklahoma, we have wine in grocery stores now. Incredible intoxicants are always within reach. So you shouldn’t be in a rush to drink your mead before it’s ready. I know, I know – it’s tough to find good mead at a retail establishment. But young mead is typically not good mead. You spent a lot of time and money to make your bubbly brew – now let it spend some time becoming perfect for you. Brewing dynamo Charlie Papazian coined the term “relax, don’t worry, have a homebrew” in his popular book The Complete Joy of Home Brewing. If you don’t have a homebrew on hand, grab a nice bottle of red from your local wine shop and sip on that until your mead has blossomed.
If you brew a big batch, let it clear, and give it some time to mature, you’ll be glad you waited. You can’t do the most if you’re in a rush!
Making Mead: Tips from the Pros
Making delicious mead at home is not difficult if you understand the fundamentals of homebrewing. Starting simple affords the greatest likelihood of a positive outcome and creates a baseline for experimentation with future batches. A good beginner batch is two US gallons of traditional semi-sweet still mead with a target alcohol content of 16% by volume. This recipe needs two quarts (4 pounds) of amber honey.
Choosing Your Honey: Honey color is a reasonable indicator of nutrient content and flavor intensity too light and you may have fermentation problems, too dark and the mead’s flavor might be overpowering. The “floral source” of the honey is not critical for novices, though it should be noted for future reference. If the honey has a pleasant aroma and flavor it should work fine.
To obtain honey, contact a local beekeeper, farmer’s market or organic food store. Select unfiltered, unheated and unpasteurized honey, as these processes rob honey of essential yeast nutrients and other flavor components.
For two gallons of mead, add 7 quarts of non-chlorinated water to a 3-gallon (minimum) kettle. Bring to a boil, then shut off the heat and remove the kettle from the burner. Slowly stir the honey into the hot water. Make sure none of it sticks to the bottom or sides of the kettle where it might scald. Once all the honey is dissolved, put the kettle on high heat and cover. Stir occasionally.
A white foam will appear before boiling commences. This is protein and beeswax from the honey. Skim it off with a strainer and discard. Remove the lid to avoid messy boilovers. Continue skimming throughout the boil until the foam stops forming. This takes less than fifteen minutes. By now you have killed the wild yeast or microorganisms that might harm your final product. You have also removed most of the colloidal material that creates haze. The boil is finished after 15 minutes or when no more (over very little) foam appears, which ever comes first.
Remove the kettle from the burner and replace the lid. Cool the must to fermentation temperature (70° to 72° F) as quickly as possible. Once you hit the right temperature, rack to your fermenter.
Add 8 grams of Diammonium Phosphate (“DAP”) yeast nutrient and 4 mg. of vitamin B1 (you can get Vitamin B1 tablets at homebrew shops). Or add a dosage of pre-mixed wine yeast nutrient like Fermaid-K in the quantity recommended by the manufacturer. Aerate the must before pitching your yeast. Do this in the same manner you would with a batch of homebrew. Now pitch the yeast. I recommend Champagne yeast like Red Star’s Premier Cuvee. One small packet, prepared and pitched according to manufacturer’s recommendations, works great.
Try to maintain a steady temperature of 70° F throughout primary fermentation.
Primary fermentation takes a week to several months. This depends on many conditions. Once the yeast flocculates and you see reasonable clarity, rack off the lees to a second vessel, then place in a cool location. Allow two more months of further clarification, then rack once more before bottling.
If this mead is too dry, you can add some honey before bottling. This should be done according to your own taste, but allow an additional month in an airlocked fermenter before bottling. This protects you from a secondary fermentation and exploding bottles.
Brewer: Jon Hamilton is president and head meadmaker of White Winter Winery in Iron River, WI
About the Honey:
Procure a good grade of honey. I prefer a white or water white honey for my sweet and dry meads. This honey usually has a nectar source of clover, trefoil, basswood, or something similar, and is usually early season honey. In general, early season honey is lighter in color and flavor. Later season honey (such as golden rod) is darker and heavier. Some mead makers prefer this heavier flavor. I suggest you try both and decide for yourself. You might also be lucky enough to find a varietal honey such as orange blossom. These can impart subtle, intriguing variations in your mead, especially if fermented with a yeast strain that enhances the flavor profile (one example of this is premier cuvee).
Use 1.5 to 5 pounds of honey per gallon, depending on your target for residual sweetness and alcohol content. The more honey, the more residual sweetness and the greater potential for a high, final alcohol content.
Use a good grade of yeast, one with a “killer” factor to overwhelm other wild yeasts. Some yeasts are known as “killer” yeasts because they suppress the growth of other yeasts. I suggest Lalvin E.C.-1118, or Pasteur Champagne.
Keep fermentation temps up to around 70° or 75° F. Fermentation should last between 10 to 20 days. Rack into a conditioning vessel and bulk age for 3 to 6 months. Bottle, then enjoy now and again to see how it’s progressing.
The most common problems I see with homebrewed meads are low acid and too high of an alcohol content. The primary goal should be to balance the alcohol with acidity and residual sweetness. If you are shooting for a high alcohol that’s fine, but balance it so it is drinkable. A high alcohol content in and of itself does not make good mead. Generally speaking, the higher the residual sweetness the higher the final total acid should be. You can purchase an acid test kit at your home brew store. A sweet mead could be as high as .85% or 8.5 grams per liter while a dry melomel is as low as .6% or 6 grams per liter. Sweetness and acid are a taste thing. They are different for everyone and that’s part of the fun of making wine * juggling your tastes and retesting until the final product is good enough for you.
Traditional meads have very low acid levels because honey has very low acid levels. This can be corrected by adding acid blend powder or lemon or lime juice to reach those acid levels mentioned above, though taste will have a lot to do with how much you actually add. The juice is not as easy to measure and duplicate as the standardized acid blend, but I like the flavor complexity it imparts better. Add juice or acid blend prior to the yeast pitch to help create a more hospitable environment for the yeast, then re-check the levels at the end of fermentation to adjust the final balance. Use acid blend on the back side for accuracy of final titrations.
The other problems for homebrewers are lack of nutrients and underpitching of yeast. Both of these lead to stuck fermentations. I recommend 1-2 grams of nutrient per liter of must and 10 grams of yeast per 5-6 gallon batch.
Brewer: Bob Sorenson of Native Wines in Mount Pleasant, UT
We prefer strongly flavored honeys, unlike those from plants like clover or other single-source honeys. These make very mild, sweet and one-dimensional meads. We prefer honey gathered from various, uncultivated sources. These sources might be native flowers, bushes or trees. What we end up with is very complex honey that is filled with all kinds of nutrients.
There are two methods of handling honey. One is boiling, the other is not to boil. Both methods are valid and professionals do it either way. But I never boil. By not boiling, I create more complex mead, where you can smell the nectar in the finished product. Boiling takes the high notes off the mead.
Our honey is raw and never heated. We mix it with cold water, always measuring sugar content until we get a reading of 21° Brix (1.090 specific gravity). We never add chemicals. Once we reach 21° Brix, we add yeast. Our yeast is a strain I cultivated locally while making Elderberry wine. I simply cultivated the wild yeast off the berry skins.
Our mead is dry, meaning we let it ferment down to 0° Brix (1.000 SG). The only way to make a stable sweet mead is by adding preservatives like sulfites or sorbates. These cut off fermentation and leave residual sweetness behind. The average mead recipe calls for 3 to 3.5 pounds of honey per gallon of finished mead, depending on the sugar content of the honey. This makes strong mead in the range of 14 percent alcohol. Since we don’t boil or filter the mead, clarity usually comes between 9 and 12 months of maturation in French oak casks. These are old casks, so they don’t impart much oak into the mead.
Time in a Bottle:
Aging is the most important step for dry meads. I recommend at least two years of aging, but I prefer four or five years, if possible. All that time in a bottle helps take the green edge off.
What the heck is this mead stuff anyway? - Some links to more information about mead
Mead is a wine that is made with honey and water instead of fruit juice. Want to know more about the wonderful beverage of mead, read some links and find out all the joys of mead, Wassail and enjoy your journey.
Your one stop shopping site for all things mead, contains articles recipes reviews and much more, its all about mead.
What is Mead? Very few alcoholic beverages have captured imaginations quite like mead has. If you&aposve ever read historical fiction or fantasy novels then you&aposve probably heard of mead, but what is mead exactly? The Vikings called mead the drink of the
Man has been making Alcohol since before recorded history. Know one know when alcohol was first discovered, or how long man has been drinking alcohol, but there is reason to believe mead, or honey wine, could have been the first alcoholic beverage to
And so it begins!
Yes, do these in order. First it needs to be that way, second, it makes more sense.
- First, sanitize everything. I fill up the sink with hot water and add the sanitizer. You could just use a big tub or bucket too, just make sure everything you’re going to use soaks in that for at least a minute or two.
- Grab that cup we said to get, pour a little juice into it, maybe 8 ounces, that’s a cup if you didn’t know. Add a half teaspoon of the yeast to this. What you’re doing is hydrating the yeast. Now, if you happen to be using liquid yeast or a starter? You can skip this step. Most likely you’re not using those things. Some people call this juice/yeast mixture a starter, they would be incorrect. Starters are more involved. Liquid yeasts are more expensive, and many experienced brewers use them, and so if you are, I’d image you know all I am about to say here, so I doubt you’d still be reading, and thus, I don’t think you’re using liquid yeast.
- Pour all of the honey into the fermentation vessel. I like 1 gallon glass carboys for vessels, but you can use pretty much any food grade plastic bottle too. There are some that would just pour off say… 1/4 of the apple juice from the bottle it came in, and add the honey right to that. I’m not one of those people, but the theory is sound. The bottle and its contents are sanitized, so, in theory, you can just use that as a fermenter. It can work, but I don’t really like plastic, so I don’t do it this way. Also, it’s much more difficult to add an airlock to those bottles.
- I highly doubt you will get all the honey out of the bottle by pouring. That, or I personally wouldn’t spend three hours standing there holding the bottle for every last drop to come out. Use this trick, pour some apple juice into the bottle, shake it up, and voila! you should get most of the honey out that way. Might take a time or three to get it all. Honey is the most expensive part of this recipe so… get every drop you can.
- Add the juice. Try to leave some headroom, at least as much as you poured into the cup with the yeast in it, and enough room for about 2 inches from the top of the bottle. More is better than less here, since… it will expand, there could be Krausen (fancy name for foam) and if there is nowhere to go, it WILL go up into your airlock and out into whatever space you happen to be storing your brew in. Trust me, it’s sticky, will ruin shoes, and possibly your day, as you clean it up.
- Shake the crap out of it. But first, put that bung in the top. You need to completely dissolve that honey into the juice. Don’t skimp on the mixing here. Sure, you can use a long stick or a spoon (if you sanitize them first) but for 1 gallon batches, it’s easier to just pick it up and shake the heck out of it for about 5-10 minutes or until nothing settles on the bottom of the fermenter.
- At this point, if you want to know, you would take the gravity reading, specifically the “Original Specific Gravity Reading”. If you want to know how much alcohol you made and/or when fermentation has stopped, you need to do this. You can wing it, but you will always wonder in the back of your mind… “Is it secret? It is safe?”. To take this reading:
Pour off enough liquid to almost fill your measuring tube. Stick the hydrometer in there. You did sanitize those things, right? Read the marking on your hydrometer. There might be up to 3 scales on it, so you’re looking for one that says Specific Gravity. The number you see should be somewhere around 1.090 or so, depending on your juice and your honey. For those that like to know things…. Water is 1.000, sugar makes water more dense or have a higher specific gravity so the more sugars there are, the higher your reading will be. As the yeasts eat the sugars, the number will drop again since there is alcohol in the mix now, and less sugar. Alcohol is less dense than water by the way. When the reading stops dropping for a few days, fermentation is done. Normally, “Final Gravity Readings” are in the 1.010 range or so. They can actually go below 1.000 due to alcohol being less dense than water, and so, the reading can drop to .990 but that would be a very dry beverage. In fact, the terms dry and sweet actually refer to how much sugar is left in the fermentation. Now you know this, you can impress people at parties. Don’t tell them I told you, own it, use it. This is now your information.
- Pour in the yeast/juice hydration mix. Mix it up first so you get it all in. Then add the yeast nutrient, usually a teaspoon per gallon.
- Fill your airlock to the MAX mark with sanitizer water and put the bung and airlock in place on your fermenter.
1 Answer 1
There are a lot of questions/comments in there, so I'll try to address them below. A quick tldr though: It will probably clear eventually, but the 5-gallon will probably take longer than the 1-gallons. If you can cold-crash it, it will speed things up. You can try clarifying agents, but they may mess up your plan to bottle carb. I don't know, though, I haven't tried it.
I was given the impression from my source material (The Compleat Meadmaker by Ken Schramm) and limited experience that it would clarify in about a month.
I ran into the same problem with the Compleat Meadmaker starter recipe. I ended up bottling way too soon, and those bottles now live in the fridge, so they won't harm anyone. For all the information in that book, it can be pretty vague in spots. Sometimes these things are clarified later on in little, one-sentence comments that are easy to miss.
However, even after three weeks, it's still pretty cloudy with no real discernible amount of change towards clearing at all.
Three weeks in secondary isn't all that long, for a standard, traditional mead. When I made that recipe, it took about 9-12 months before I declared it ready for consumption. It's still good mead, though.
I can still see some tiny bubbles at the surface. Is this evidence that fermentation is still slowly ongoing?
Not necessarily. Unless you actively degassed during primary, there is probably still a bit of CO2 in your mead. This will slowly dissipate over the next few weeks. If I remember correctly, though, that recipe has you rack early and it finishes out slowly over the next few weeks. The only real way to tell if it's still fermenting will be to check your gravity.
I'm just wondering, will it ever clear on it's own?
What kind of timeline am I looking at? Is this just the result of scale?
As long as it takes. Yes, larger batches take longer to clear naturally, in my experience. The amount of other particulate in your honey also matters. For example, I had a 3-gallon batch of mead from a super-waxy honey that refused to clear after about 3 or 4 months in secondary, even though my 1-gallons of the same recipe cleared in
1. I bottled it, assuming it would just be waxy. 2 months later all the bottles were crystal clear, with a decent amount of sediment on the bottom. FYI, if you heated your must, it can take a little longer to clear.
[. ] will I have to resort to clarifying agents? Or, because I want sparkling, should I bottle soon to ensure the yeast is still active and it should clarify in the bottle?
If you want it to be sparkling, then you should not use clarifying agents, unless you plan on kegging and force carbonating. Of course, you could always try to cold crash it, if you have the means to refrigerate a 5-gallon carboy. Also, keep in mind that if you've hit your yeast's ABV limit, then it may not carbonate when you add priming sugar or honey later on. Of course, there are solutions to that, if that's the case.
FYI, if you're concerned with the timetable on this one, don't get discouraged. While you wait for that to clear up, try some other beginner recipes to learn some more techniques, like staggered nutrient additions (SNA) and back sweetening. The BOMM (Bray's One Month Mead) and Joe's Quick Grape Mead are good, quick starter recipes that can help you build a base of techniques that you can carry over to other recipes.
How to Make Mead
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Mead is one of the oldest alcoholic drinks known to man. It is essentially a wine made from fermented honey and is relatively easy to produce. The three main ingredients are water, honey, and yeast, and with the proper equipment, you can make your own mead at home. The original recipee calls for Filipendula (mead herb), to be added, otherwise it's called honeywine. Recipee for that as follows.